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juniper stokes 8/31/23 juniper stokes 8/31/23

A Guide to Perfume Types: Dilutions & Ratios in Natural Perfumes

EDP or EDT? Perfume or Parfum? The world of fragrance is full of various terms that can be a bit confusing when you first hear of them—which is why I’ve put together this helpful guide :)

EDP or EDT? Perfume or Parfum?

The world of fragrance is full of various terms that can be a bit confusing when you first hear of them — which is why I’ve put together this helpful guide :) Let’s take a look at the most common ratios, dilutions, and terms used in perfumery — and how they’re just a bit different when it comes to natural perfumes.

Psst! If you’re looking for info on natural perfume families — aka, chypre vs floral vs gourmand — you’ll want to take a look at this fascinating article: A Guide to Natural Perfume Fragrance Families.

What are perfume types?

In short, different strengths of perfumes have different names — this is what I mean by “perfume type”.

For example, an “eau de toilette” is usually at about a 10% dilution. This means that your fragrance will contain 10% fragrant material (either natural essences like essential oils, or chemical compounds in mainstream perfumes) and 90% carrier (usually alcohol or oil, and occasionally water).

Why is perfume type important?

Because the strength of your perfume dictates how long it will last. As you might guess, the stronger the dilution, the longer the wear and sillage…

Sillage—the aromatic trail left as someone wearing a perfume walks by

The most common perfume type is probably “eau de parfume”, often shortened to EDP. When people in the United States say “perfume”, this is usually what they mean.

If you look up perfume strength meanings online, you’ll find many lists with ratios similar to what I have here. These charts usually estimate the sillage by hour…

This doesn’t work with natural perfumes.

Natural perfumes don’t last as long as chemical-based ones — yet, if you’re just dipping your toes into the world of natural perfumery, you might be surprised at how long Alchemessence Perfumes do last. Here’s why:

Many people confuse botanical perfumes with aromatherapy blends. This is understandable — both are made with essential oils, and both can smell really good. But the two are actually extremely different. So much so that I’ll have an entire blog post dedicated to the topic soon…

What’s important now, is to understand that I intentionally design my botanical perfumes to last longer than simple aromatherapy blends, bringing together top and mid notes with long-lasting bases and “fixatives”.

Fixative—a botanical ingredient that extends the silage of your fragrance in natural perfumery

In natural perfumery, a fixative is a completely natural essential oil, absolute, or CO2 that extends the sillage of your perfume in a few different ways—by slowing down the evaporative rate or fortifying the fragrance, for example.

This means that some of my strongest perfumes will actually last up to 6hrs on your skin—naturally!

Decoding Dilutions: A Guide to Perfume Types and Concentrations

Of course, the more concentrated the perfume, the longer it will last. Here are the common types of perfumes based on their dilutions:

Parfum Extrait

Concentration: 20-40% perfume oil
Longevity: Lasts the longest, often for more than 6 hours, though the aroma of natural perfumes will change more during this window
Intensity: Highly potent and rich in scent
Application: Typically only a small amount is needed due to its strength
Characteristics: Expensive due to the high concentration of natural perfume oils, often packaged in smaller bottles, common in perfume oils and solids

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Concentration: 10-20% perfume oil
Longevity: Lasts for around 3-6 hours depending on the ingredients
Intensity: Strong and noticeable, but slightly less potent than pure perfume
Application: Spritzing a couple of times on pulse points is usually sufficient
Characteristics: EDPs strike a balance between longevity and potency, making them popular choices and the most common perfume types

Eau de Toilette (EDT)

Concentration: 5-10% perfume oil
Longevity: Lasts for about 2 hours
Intensity: Lighter than EDP, suitable for a subtle scent
Application: Requires more spritzing throughout the day
Characteristics: EDTs are commonly used for everyday wear and are less overpowering

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Concentration: 2-4% perfume oil
Longevity: Lasts for about 1-2 hours or less
Intensity: Very light and refreshing
Application: Needs frequent reapplication due to its low concentration
Characteristics: Often used for a quick refreshment or in warmer weather due to its light nature

Eau Fraiche

Concentration: 1-3% perfume oil
Longevity: A brief aromatic experience
Intensity: Extremely light and subtle
Application: Requires frequent reapplication
Characteristics: Eau Fraiche has the lowest concentration of perfume oils and is mostly used for a quick mood boost

It's important to note that the longevity and intensity of a fragrance also depend on individual skin chemistry and the specific ingredients in the perfume. Additionally, the same fragrance may smell slightly different at various concentrations due to the interactions between the perfume oils and the other components of the fragrance.

When choosing a perfume, consider your personal preference for intensity, how long you want the scent to last, and the occasion for which you're wearing it. It's a good idea to test perfumes on your skin to see how they interact with your body chemistry and to experience how they develop over time. Natural perfumes especially tend to be shape shifters, dancing uniquely with each of our personal chemistries.

Find your personal, all-natural fragrance in the Alchemessence Perfumery.

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juniper stokes 4/22/23 juniper stokes 4/22/23

Severed from Scent

At the end of last year, I woke up on Christmas morning and my sense of smell was gone.

This is awful for anyone…but for a perfumer? Absolutely devastating. It’s been a slow recovery (that bout of covid was especially rough). Though my smell had mostly come back by mid February, I could tell that I wasn’t picking up on the subtle nuances I used to. The loss of smell has been such a strange piece of this pandemic era…A strong sense of smell has always been a mark of a healer — the ability to sniff out both the diseases and the cures.

At the end of last year, I woke up on Christmas morning and my sense of smell was gone.

This is awful for anyone…but for a perfumer? Absolutely devastating.

It’s been a slow recovery (that bout of covid was especially rough). Though my smell had mostly come back by mid February, I could tell that I wasn’t picking up on the subtle nuances I used to.

The loss of smell has been such a strange piece of this pandemic era…

A strong sense of smell has always been a mark of a healer — the ability to sniff out both the diseases and the cures.

It’s also closely associated with our intuition. We can smell when something — or someone — is off.

This probably has something to do with the unique ability of aroma to bypass our conscious minds, eliciting unbidden feelings and memories before our thinking brains can process what’s happening… or get in the way.

Our sense of smell also brings us into our bodies. While transcendence may certainly be part of our soul paths, we also come into bodies here on Earth to experience being fully human. Our five senses are the gateways to embodiment. And embodiment is a gateway to both pleasure and presence.

And, fragrance is a gateway to the gods.

In Egyptian mythology, the fragrance of the sacred lotus birthed the universe. Statues of deities in ancient cultures were anointed with fragrant oils to wake up the gods they housed. The deceased were anointed with aromatic plant material to help carry their souls along their journeys. The aroma of flowers is said to announce the presence of the gods or angels. Temples around the world are filled with fragrant smoke.

Healing, inner knowing, pleasure, presence, and spiritual connection…all rooted in our ability to trust our own noses.

Perhaps it shouldn’t be surprising that our connection with smell as been under attack for some time.

Even before the pandemic, humanity had been slowly led away from our sense of smell and the myriad gifts it offers, effectively cutting us off from a profound gateway to healing, intuition, memory, pleasure, and spiritual connections.

One long-standing culprit is the fragrance and flavoring industry.

I’ve long been skeptical of a fragrance and flavoring industry that trains humans to prefer the smell of artificial ingredients in their cosmetics. While the synthetic compounds added to our foods and body products have physically detrimental properties, my concern also lies in effects this has on our psyches and souls.

The fallout of the rampant scent-washing in our culture are twofold:

First, artificial fragrances have distanced humans from the natural world.

The idea that ingredients from a factory are somehow cleaner or potent than those from a forest pervades our collective consciousness.

That the fragrance of an air freshener, filled with known cancer-causing compounds, smells “fresh” is a sign of this insanity. That a “peach blossom” lotion smells like no peach nor blossom ever found in nature is a sign of how far removed from the natural world we’ve become.

These fragrances train our noses — and our knowing — to deny what we know is true and believe the lies sold to us.

The fragrances found in whole plant materials contain myriad compounds perfectly designed to harmonize with each other. We humans evolved in relationship with these plants, and our bodies readily receive their gifts. Our sense of smell brings these complexities into our psyches, where we intuitively receive our plant allies’ wisdom.

As humans learn to prefer synthetic flavors and aromas, they are cut off from their relationship with their own ability to sniff out what’s true. To sniff out their own cures for what ails them. They are subtly disconnected from their innate powerful, intuition-supporting sense of smell.

The second outcome is found in those humans who loudly proclaim that they can tolerate no fragrances of any kind.

I get it. These people’s bodies told them that synthetics were harming them, and they listened. The problem comes when this makes people afraid of all smells — even the ones with profound healing benefits.

Of course, toxic overload from synthetics can lead to the body’s inability to process naturals. And, many smells marketed as “natural” actually contain plenty of synthetics, so I can understand the fear. Yet, this fear cuts off important pathways for healing and delight.

Our sense of smell is a gift from the gods, part of the wonder of being embodied in the human forms. Not only does it help us survive, it helps us enjoy life and find pleasure in our physical experience. And pleasure is part of why we’re here.

My heart breaks when I hear that someone cannot tolerate any fragrance (if you’ve ever worked in an office building, you’ve met many of these folks). As a natural perfumer and clinically certified aromatherapist, I know that simply smelling precious oils from plants (let alone the benefits of topical applications) can help us focus, give us energy, regulate our hormones and nervous systems, alleviate depression and anxiety, soothe us in times of grief, ignite aphrodisiac qualities, relieve insomnia, and so much more.

Anyone who’s ever worn a perfume, or had a signature fragrance of any kind, knows the feelings that arise with that first spritz. You somehow feel more like yourself — the best version of yourself. You might feel more beautiful, sexy, powerful, calm, fulfilled, peaceful, hopeful, abundant, or creative depending on the perfume of the day.

Those over-the-top perfume commercials? They may be ridiculous, but they’re also a pretty good representation of what perfume does for the psyche. While synthetic perfumes legitimately give many people headaches and worse, perfumes made with true naturals bestow even more transformational energy and pleasure to those who wear them.

If you love beauty, pleasure, and Venusian delights as much I do, you might enjoy taking a peek at my perfumer’s artist statement.

The next severance from our sense of smell comes from our online lives.

The pandemic no doubt accelerated this phenomena, yet the seeds have been in place for decades. Our online communities and interactions, social networks and getting lost in the “scroll hole” (This is my partner Mike’s and my term for not just doomscrolling but getting lost in an endless mind-numbing feed of information. I’m surprised it hasn’t taken off yet, to be honest…). And then came the Metaverse and increasing capabilities of virtual reality.

Any life lived online is removed from our embodied experience. Yes, we use our eyes and take in the visuals, we connect with audio and can converse or enjoy a melody, and we can even engage in some sensory experiences with haptics and the rare VR bodysuit.

To my knowledge, however, smell — and its sister sense taste — are not yet available in the online realms. Smell keeps us in our bodies, in the present, and connected to what is true and real for us in the moment.

By the time the pandemic arrived, humanity had been well prepped for relinquishing our sense of smell.

To be clear, I’m not saying that losing our sense of smell as part of the pandemic was some orchestrated event. Rather, I can’t help but wonder if this particular effect is a reflection, showing us what we’ve already lost in no uncertain terms.

If we look at our collective pandemic experience, we can see the separation of us from each other, from our own healing capabilities, and from our intuitive knowing of what is and isn’t true. Yet these questions extend far beyond the pandemic too.

Where have you doubted your own knowing? Your ability to heal yourself? Where have you lost touch with pleasure, embodiment, and the ability to be present in each moment? Where have you forgotten what’s actually true, or allowed yourself to be led by lies? Where has the reverent ritual of bringing spirit into daily life been set aside in favor of more “urgent” matters?

Smell is a gift from the gods and fragrance is the perfume of spirit. May we can heal our broken relationship with olfaction, realign with the true nature of reality, and reawaken reverence and wonder in our hearts.

Returning to the Perfumery

It’s now been a bit over four months since I lost my sense of smell, and it’s just about returned. Though it’s hard to tell if my nose is really as strong as it was before, I at least feel confident to work in the perfumery again. And this fills my heart with joy.

I have several new perfumes I’d designed last year, before the loss of smell, in my studio. I didn’t want to share them until I could be sure they were up to my standards, and now that I can work again, I’m finally putting the finishing touches on them.

A few that will be coming soon…

Odin

The all father of Northern lands, Odin is the newest addition to the masculine Gods series. His perfume is as strong and complex as he is. Imagine walking into a mysterious hall, almost an elevated and member-only speakeasy filled with aromas of tobacco, cognac, and cacao. A hint of spice, a touch of musk. Decadent and dark.

Yuzu Yoru

One of my conceptual pieces, is inspired by my years living, eating, and inhaling the fragrances of Tokyo. A citrus forward fragrance, fresh yuzu and Asian kumquats meet with robust citrón and cedrat, gently harmonized with rare strawberry gum (a type of eucalyptus, not the artificial chews!), Japanese hinoki, and precious osmanthus blossoms. A rare delight for summer days and Toyko nights.

There’s also a magical Chinese Goddess, a watery Greek elemental, and more to come :)

While you wait, be sure to explore the new Scents of Summer Discovery Set, filled with the perfect botanical allies for celebrating this season.

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juniper stokes 11/8/22 juniper stokes 11/8/22

The Mystical and Magical Emergence of Angel Oils

Angel anointing oils are aromatic and vibrational blends created in sacred ceremony. Direct transmissions from the angels themselves, the imbue divine light codes into anyone who works with these oils. Discover who the angels are, why you would call on them, and the aligned plant essences for each archangel.

Several months ago, I woke up with the most beautiful, ethereal aroma in my field.

I have clairolfactory gifts—which means that I perceive spiritual smells as a form of intuitive guidance. So awareness of an aroma from beyond our 3D reality isn’t out of the ordinary for me.

Yet there was something truly magical, something calling me into deeper exploration with this aroma. I decided to

I entered my perfumery and prepared for sacred alchemical practice.

I lit my candles, cleansed my energy body with a precious feather, and tended my creative altar.

Then I sat down to channel the mystical aroma I was perceiving into physical form.

To my surprise, what unfolded wasn’t a single oil at all—it was a divine dance of angelic blessings. The great archangels, who I've been working with for decades now, wanted to share their unique gifts and blessings with the world through sacred plant alchemy.

In other words, the angels told me very clearly to make them ceremonial perfume oils—and to share these oils with as many people as possible!

I’ve never channeled such harmonious recipes for fragrant oils so seamlessly before. I wonder if this is because I’ve cultivated a natural resonance with these beings over years of practice, or if humans in general have a karmic affinity for the angels. Maybe both. (If this resonates, stay in touch! I’ll be teaching angelic mediumship classes next year.)

My first instruction was clear—every oil would have the same 4 aromatics as the base:

Angelica—a plant named for the angels, angelica invites and anchors angelic blessings to earth
Rose—the angels all encompass unconditional compassion, and rose attunes our heart to this vibration
Sandalwood—a sacred oil with an affinity for the crown chakra, sandalwood opens us to divine messages
Frankincense Sacra—another oil sacred to the angels themselves, frankincense sacra, sacred frankincense) carries our prayers to spirit while quieting our egoic minds

From here, the unique “personality” of each angel came forward to guide the rest of their aromatic oils. Over the course of a single week, nine angels in total (for now at least) came forward to transmit their essences into oils through me.

Meet the Aromatic Archangels

Archangel Raphael

Raphael blesses us with the green ray of healing light, and his oil transmits this healing energy to us through verdant aromatics. High altitude lavender carries an expansive all-healing energy, while evergreens, citruses, and Greenland moss layer green rays of light upon the soul.

Archangel Michael

Michael comes bearing the blue flaming sword of divine protection. Purifying and protective oils—blue juniper berries, fragrant mastic, bay laurel and more—fill this complex blend.

Archangel Gabriel

Gabriel brings us messages from spirit carried upon divine waters. Precious, white florals hold the high vibration of this celestial being—white lotus, white jasmine, white angelica, and more.

Archangel Uriel

Uriel helps us ground spiritual wisdom into our earthly existence. Grounding oils—cedarwood, patchouli, vetiver, liquidambar, and more—form the heart of this sacred blend, while a trio of potent frankincense provide an infusion of pure spirit. Nourishing sweet aromas of peru balsam, myrrh, and rose soothe the spirit.

Archangel Sandalphon

Sandalphon connects us to the crystalline energy grid of the highest vibration of Gaia, attuning our frequency to that of the Earth’s ascension. Golden, high vibe oils create a potent transmission in this blend—Italian neroli, amyris, silver fir, ancient amber, and more.

Archangel Metatron

Metatron connects us to the cosmic and timeless wisdom of the divine. High vibration oils that open our intuitive centers fill this oil, including true white lotus, galbanum, and high altitude lavender.

The above archangels are the 6 primary beings called upon in Western Angel Magick: The four archangels Raphael, Michael, Gabriel, and Uriel represent the four elements and guard the four directions of the horizontal plane, while Sandalphone and Metatron support our ascension and guard the vertical plane.
For anyone who wishes to work with this celestial team in their entirety, I’ve put together a special collection of these six anointing oils.

Archangel Haniel

Haniel uplifts our spirits and brings joy to our souls with lunar turquoise rays. Botanicals of clary sage and lavender help us harmonize with moon cycles, and uplifting notes of bergamot, geranium, and juniper raise our spirits. Precious florals—tuberose, osmanthus, jasmine, and more—delight our senses and raise our vibrations in this magical angel oil.

Archangel Chamuel

Chamuel carries the pure vibration of unconditional love, healing our hearts and helping us experience what true, divine love really is. Heart-opening oils fill this sacred blend, including rare pink lotus absolute, pink grapefruit, rose, violet, a rare and irreplaceable raspberry leaf absolute, and more.

Archangel Azrael

Azrael holds the pure vibrational essence of divine neutrality, a psychopomp who loving guiding souls through transitions into other realms. Azrael’s oil contains dark essences of mystery, such as black frankincense and star anise, and harmonious essences of pure love. Cypress assists in the crossing over of souls, clove cleanses foreign energy, and vanilla provides loving nourishment in this potent blend.

The Seraphim

Seraphim are a particular class of angels—six-winged celestial beings who appear as flames of purifying divine light. The Seraphim remind us that all is holy. I originally designed the Seraphim’s fragrance as a perfume, but my guidance now is to bring this aromatic elixir into the fold of my angelic anointing oils.

Seraphim is a true ceremonial-grade perfume oil containing several high vibe essences—rose, orris, benzoin, and pink pepper, to name a few. The result is a layered fragrance with notes of white florals, precious woods, and a powdery finish.

I’ll be releasing one of these magical oils per day, with details about their botanicals, to the public throughout the 2022 Angel Portal, which runs from 11/11/22 - 11/22/22. Follow me over on Instagram for these angelic transmissions.

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Angel anointing oils are aromatic and vibrational blends created in sacred ceremony. Direct transmissions from the angels themselves, the imbue divine light codes into anyone who works with these oils. Discover who the angels are, why you would ...

juniper stokes 9/29/22 juniper stokes 9/29/22

8 Tips for Buying High Quality Essential Oils

As a botanical perfumer who is committed to creating the most luxurious, alchemical, and potent natural perfumes possible, I’ve spent years learning how to discern high quality, real essential oils from the fraudulent ones. Learn 8 key tips for buying high quality essential oils here!

4 Ways Essential Oils and Natural Products are Adulterated

Far too often, essential oil suppliers will adulterate their oils by:

Cutting more expensive oils with less expensive ones
Adding synthetic aroma molecules to supposedly pure essential oils
Replacing the named oil with a totally different oil than what’s listed in the description
Selling purely synthetic, fake versions and true botanicals

8 Tips for Sourcing Authentic and Pure Essential Oils & Natural Products

Luckily, it’s actually pretty easy to avoid buying fake oils once you know what you’re doing! Here are the top 8 things I look for when sourcing quality oils:

1. The Price

Every essential oil is extracted from a different amount of raw plant material, and the more material it takes to make a drop of oil, the more expensive the oil will be.

Tips:

Every oil should have a different price—in other words, neroli and pine should not cost the same amount.
Oil prices should generally fall within a certain price range. Compare prices at several different companies—if anything is way less than average, it’s likely fake.
Knowing general pricing for aromatic groups can be helpful, too. A few guidelines here:

Citruses and fragrant trees tend to be on the lower end of prices
Flowers tend to be on the higher end of prices
Rarer plants (often those that are only grown in certain areas) tend to be on the higher side
Common fragrant plants (such as mint, cinnamon, clove, and lavender) tend to be more affordable as well

2. Botanical Names

Always look for the botanical name of the plant in question—the one written in latin. It should match the plant name on the bottle. This probably seems obvious, but I’ve seen plenty of mismatched common and botanical names on websites.

Tips:

Make sure the latin name matches the common plant name on the listing or bottle.
Make sure the latin name is the variety you’re looking for—lavandula angustifolia is quite different from lavandula latifolia cineolifera or lavandula x intermedia grosso.
If an oil doesn’t have a latin name, don’t buy it.

3. Extraction Method & Part Distilled

Most reputable suppliers will include the part of the plant the oil is extracted from, as well as how it was extracted in their product description. If this is missing, take it as a warning. After all, juniper berry essential oils is quite different from a juniper oil extracted from leaves and twigs!

Tips:

Look for “Extraction Method”—Most oils are steam distilled, but not all. Citruses are often cold pressed, absolutes are solvent extracted, and CO2s are done with a regular or supercritical CO2 extraction.
Look for the “Plant Part”—Does the oil come from wood, fruit, flower, etc?

4. Country of Origin

Different countries produce different varieties and qualities of essential oils, so seeing the country of origin can give you a clue as to the quality of the oil.

Tips:

Make sure there is a single country of origin listed. Blends from multiple countries tend to be of lesser quality (though not always).
No listed country signals likely synthetic origins.

5. Cultivation

Cultivation refers to how a plant was grown—is it wildcrafted, organic, or conventional? Seeing this listed is a good sign in general.

Tips:

Make sure the cultivation method is likely to be accurate. For example, have you ever seen basil in the wild? Nope, wildcrafted basil isn’t likely.
Some plants are rarely, if ever, organically cultivated, whether because it’s unnecessary (as with many trees) or financially difficult (as with many precious flowers).
Organic cultivation tends to be more expensive than conventional, so you can double check your pricing here, as well.

6. Company Transparency

Good oils come from good businesses. Do you know who owns the company? Where they’re located? They’re return policies?

Tips:

Find the company’s about page. Look for specifics—like who founded the company, why they started, and their philosophy about the oils. Avoid generalized pages that might never say more than “We specialize in high quality essential oils.”
Look for clear shipping and return policies, as well as contact information.
Do they offer 3rd party testing reports? Look for “GC/MS batch-tested” and the ability to request these reports.

7. Non-Existent Oils

Some plants, fragrant though they may seem to us, simply don’t produce enough essential oils to be extracted. Other plants don’t actually have strong scents, but companies use their names to describe synthetic aromas (think “cucumber-melon” for example). Make sure the oils you’re searching for actually exist!

Tips:

Many “food” smells cannot be botanically extracted, so they are almost always synthetic—cucumber, melon, apple, cherry, apricot, plum, and raspberry, to name a few.
Many flowers are almost impossible to extract aroma from. The following are almost always synthetic—gardenia, lilac, wisteria, any lily, honeysuckle, freesia, hyacinth, and “white florals”.
Plant names are often given to synthetic scents when the plant in question doesn’t actually have much of a fragrance—bamboo, papyrus, or willow for example.

8. Company Ethics

The way a company operates can say a lot about whether or not you want to support them, even beyond the quality of their oils.

Here are a few things to consider:

Does the company sell both “natural” and synthetic oils? I’ve found that companies who are truly committed to naturals have better quality oils. Plus, if they sell both, there is likely adulteration behind the scenes.
Does the company sell animal products? Many perfume suppliers still sell things like civet oil, which is obtained from a small wildcat through an extremely cruel and painful process. I try not to support any companies that perpetuate animal cruelty.
Does the company sell endangered oils? Many plants are at risk because of the demand for their precious oils. I try to find companies offering sustainable alternatives to the most threatened species. For example, while Indian sandalwood is endangered, Australian sandalwood can be a more sustainable alternative.
Does the company support safe use of essential oils? An ethical company will name warnings clearly—not for use with children or while pregnant, or with certain medications, for example. Watch out for companies that tell you to take essential oils internally (you can with some, but it’s a delicate dose), or that encourage you to use a ton of the oil at a time (the oils are precious, and a little goes a long way!).

There you go! 8 helpful tips for buying high quality essential oils. Happy shopping!

woman relaxing with essential oils in bathtub

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juniper stokes 8/31/22 juniper stokes 8/31/22

The Complete Guide to Magical & Ritual Anointing Oils

What are anointing oils and how do you use them? Discover how to use magical and ritual oils, explore the myrrhophore tradition, and claim your own lineage with sacred oils. From Egypt to modern day witches, oils are a powerful part of any spiritual practice.

A Complete Guide to Magical and Ritual Anointing Oils

Did your ancestors practice the sacred art of anointing?

Does your soul remember lifetimes as an oil-bearing priestess?

Do you experience a full-body resonance when you simply hear the word, anointing?

If so, you just might carry the signature of one who is destined to work with these sacred oils in this lifetime.

Read on to discover what anointing oils are, how they’re made, and why you should use anointing oils in your own spiritual and magical practices.

What are anointing oils?

Anointing oils are sacred infusions of plant materials and oils created to channel divine transmission into physical reality.

Traditionally, anointing oils were made by macerating whole plant material into pressed oils—the spikenard in olive oil of the Bible and myrrh infused in safflower of ancient Egypt are just a few well-known examples.

Today, fragrant essential oils join the ingredient list, inviting rare and precious botanicals from throughout the world into our sacred oil repertoire.

Anointing oils open our connection to both spiritual wisdom and divine healing. Perhaps this is because oils infused with botanicals are not only fragrant—they are medicinal.

Every plant carries both physical and energetic gifts, and a true alchemist knows how to harmonize these layered intricacies, creating sacred oils that provoke divine bliss, carry unique vibrational signatures, and contain chemical properties that promote healing on all levels. —Juniper Stokes

A note of caution: Many anointing oils sold today contain synthetic fragrances. This is partly because these ingredients are much cheaper than true plant oils, and partly because there are many suppliers who sell fraudulent oils to well-intentioned makers. These oils do not carry the vibrational gifts and resonance of true, botanical anointing oils. Check out my free guide to avoiding fakes here.

The History of Anointing with Oil

From the beginning of time, in every culture and on every continent, humans have used fragrance to connect with the divine—and the use of sacred anointing oils has been one of the most important expressions of our aromatic practices.

By turning to the past, we discover the ancestral connections with plants held in our bodies and souls. And by living in the present, we can discover profound ways to create and make use of sacred oils today.

Ancient Egypt

The ancient Egyptians held that the world was created from the fragrance of the blue lotus, and scent was an integral part of all Egyptian life.

Precious oils were used to anoint and activate statues of the gods. Other blends—including the famous Kyphi—were used as both personal perfumes and as medicine.

Egyptologist Dora Goldsmith (a PhD candidate and one of my personal teachers in this area), notes how inscriptions on temple walls point to the ritual and intention that went into creating anointing oils and unguents. While some perfumes and oils were made for daily use, others had very strict ritual instructions: These precious oils and perfumes could only be made by priests and priestesses—surrogates for royalty—and precise ingredients, steps, timelines, and even incantations were required during their creation.

(After studying with Dora for over a year—and reading over a dozen books on the fragrances and rituals of ancient Egypt—I have much more to share on this topic. Be sure to subscribe to stay in the loop!)

alchemy — Vaso alchemico, unknown artist

It’s also likely that our modern practices of anointing royalty (yes, in England a new monarch is anointed in a private ceremony, with a secret blend of oils, to this day) began in ancient Egypt as well. In her groundbreaking work, Egypt’s Anointing Mysteries, Egyptologist Dr. Alison Roberts explores rituals in which the queen would take on goddess-like powers and attributes in order to empower the king through anointing practices.*

*As an aside, in Celtic traditions, kings would receive their power from a sovereignty goddess—without her blessing, he could not be sovereign of the land. A theme to be explored in further articles… ;)

The fragrant traditions of Egypt spread throughout Europe and the Middle East, where they were influenced by expanding trade routes and changing cultures. From Greek Olympians empowering themselves with olive oil and Hippocrates’s instructions to anoint the sick with oil, to the Arabic healing traditions of Avicenna and Hebrew consecrations of priests and kings, to the Biblical anointing practices still used in churches today and much more, Western antiquity was bathed in fragrant oils.

Myrrophores

Myrrophores, or “myrrh-bearers” were sacred priestesses who would channel the celestial power of the divine through sacred oils for soul-level healing—a tradition that likely originated in ancient Egypt and spread throughout the Greco-Roman empire, as well.

Perhaps one of the most well-known acts of anointing in the West is when Mary Magdalene anointed Jesus’s feet with the oil of nard (spikenard). Here, as much as patriarchal retellings have tried to erase Mary Magdalene’s healing gifts, they have not been able to fully obscure the power of her anointing practice or her connection to the myrrhophores.

Some mystical scholars even suggest that her transmission of prayer and protection, carried forth through sacred oil, empowered the resurrection that followed.

Artus Wolffort - Mary Magdalene Anointing Christ’s Feet in the House of Simon the Pharisee — Featured Workshop
**The Path of the Myrrhophore**

*A Magdalene Feast Day Ritual & Teaching*
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How do anointing oils work?

Anointing oils work by transmitting divine empowerments into our physical reality.

This happens through the ingredients used, the approach to creating the oil, the art of transmission, and the rituals involved when using the oil.

Plants have been our allies, teachers, healers, and guides since the dawn of humanity, and every plant used in an anointing oil carries a unique set of empowerment codes that synergistically act to empower the oil.

When these plants are alchemized in sacred ceremony, they harmonize with the intentions of the alchemist to create a powerful unguent.

When we place these oils on our body, or anywhere in our fields, we receive the oil’s alchemical codes and ignite our own transformation.

Shamanic Transmission in Anointing Practices: The Key to Potency

The most powerful oils contain a transmission that they pass onto the anointed.

When I create either an anointing oil or a botanical perfume, I always include a transmission ceremony for the finished product. My process is rooted in shamanic practice, though certainly not limited to those who identify with shamanism.

After setting sacred space and preparing my mind, body, and spirit for the work, I enter into a mediumship state. If I’m channeling a particular deity, I invite them to merge with me. If I’m working with an intention, I call forth that energy to be present. Then, I pour the energetic signature of the being or intention involved directly into the final bottle.

This way, not only does each bottle of perfume or oil contain the vibrational signatures of every botanical involved, it contains a direct healing transmission from spirit. This transmission is then activated with every use. Even if all you have time for is quick application on your wrist, the blessings will flow.

How to Use Anointing Oils

Throughout history, anointing was used for both healing and spiritual purposes—and as mentioned before, the two were often one and the same.

Traditional aromatic rituals include:

Awakening and honoring the gods: The anointing of deities’ statues to awaken and empower the gods was a common practice in Egypt and likely used in ancient Greece, as well.
Blessings: Blessing visitors and guests with sacred oils was a common Hebrew practice in antiquity, and to this day babies might be anointed with sacred oils for blessing and protection at birth.
Anointing the sick: Throughout the world, anointing the sick was a common practice. In Greece and the Arabic world, oils were infused with medicinal plants. In Christianity, priests would anoint the sick in what is known as an unction.
Consecration: Kings and priests were anointed by sacred oils, usually by priests standing in for God to symbolize the divine rights of the anointed.
Exorcism: The Oil of Catechumens, aka the Oil of Exorcism, is used by some churches to expel evil during baptisms—but the Christian church isn’t the only group to use oils for exorcism. In Taoist anointing traditions, oils are placed on key acupuncture points to expel ghosts and possessions.

Modern Anointing Practices

Today, magical practices and new spiritual practices have reinvigorated the use of anointing oils—and who can use them.

I believe that it is our birthright to access the magical, spiritual, and healing gifts of sacred anointing oils. A few of my favorite ways to use oils include…

Spiritual & Energy Healing—We can use the subtle vibrations of oils to shift our own energetic health.
Taoist Anointing Practices—Apprenticing with a rare master in the Jade Purity tradition has opened my eyes to the magic that happens when we apply oils to specific meridians.
Empowering Objects—Rubbing an oil on a sacred object imbues it with spiritual power. (Crystals love anointing oils!)
Rituals and ceremonies—Anointing oils can enhance rituals and ceremonies of all types, including blessings, transitions, seasonal celebrations, and other intentions.
Connecting with the Divine—Whether you want to align with the energy of a specific deity, connect with the angels, or simply open yourself to spiritual wisdom, anointing oils can support you.
Chakras—Blessing each energy can bring about balance and health.
Spellwork and Manifestation—Whatever your intentions, be they prosperity, health, protection, or love, magical anointing oils can help.

A Personal Anointing Ritual

While anointing oils can be used in infinitely complex rituals, they can also be used for simple daily empowerment.

Here’s a short practice for anytime you want to connect with an intention or deity:

Upon receiving your oil (spiritual perfumes will also work here), hold it to your heart and visualize your intention. See your intention flowing from you into the bottle and from the bottle into you. This will activate your personal connection with the oil.
Next, inhale the oil’s fragrance deeply and several times. You can inhale directly from the bottle, or you can apply a bit to your wrist first. This activates your neural response to the oil, so you’ll more easily remember your intention every time you smell it in the future.
Then, apply the oil to your body on a daily basis for 30 days. Depending on your intention, you may rub a few drops into your heart or third eye. Or, you might simply wear a bit on your wrists as a perfume you can smell repeatedly until the natural fragrance fades. Either way, focus on your intention while you apply the oil.

Common Questions: How to Distinguish Anointing Oils from other Aromatic Practices

What’s the difference between an anointing oil and other botanical oils?

The main difference lies in the intention with which the oil was created. Anointing oils must be created through ritual. This involves setting sacred space, blessing your materials, and infusing the resulting oil with a transmission of your intention. Some oils are made following specific instructions and recipes, while others are created by allowing the divine to work through you intuitively.

Are anointing oils the same as aromatherapy?

Anointing oils can fall within the realm of aromatherapy, but they don’t always do so.

There are two main approaches to modern aromatherapy: clinical aromatherapy, and subtle aromatherapy.*

Subtle aromatherapy blends are based on the energetic and spiritual qualities of oils, and anointing oils certainly fall in this category.

Clinical aromatherapy relies on the psycho-emotional and physical effects of oils. While anointing oils may certainly have psycho-emotional and physical effects, their primary purpose is spiritual in nature. So, your typical aromatherapy blends for stress relief or headaches probably aren’t anointing oils.

*As a note, I feel that the best aromatherapy products integrate both subtle and clinical dimensions into their formulas.

What’s the difference between anointing oils and perfumes?

Broadly speaking, the word perfume can refer to anything used for aromatic purposes—incense, aromatic waters, oils, and unguents of all types all fall under this fragrant umbrella.

Today, the word perfume most often refers to scents worn for pleasure, while the term anointing oil refers to sacred oils used for ritual and spiritual purposes.

However, I think it’s worth noting that throughout most of human history, fragrance, medicine, and spiritual practice were one and the same.

In ancient Greece, the single word arómata was used to describe incense, perfume, spices, and aromatic medicine, showing us how little differentiation was given to aroma for pleasure, spirit, and health. Interestingly, the unguentarii, those who sold perfumes, were held in the same esteem as doctors.

Are anointing oils the same as ritual oils?

The way I create and use them, yes.

Some folks will likely disagree here—especially if you’re focused on Christian anointing traditions or have specific guidelines around your magical practice. For me, anointing is sacred and it is magical, so I use the terms interchangeably.

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Here’s What You Need to Know about Buying Natural Perfumes and Essential Oils (aka how to avoid the frauds!)

The world of aromatics is fraught with artificial and adulterated oils that are sold as “pure” and “natural”. So how can you protect yourself? How can you make sure that the oils and products you’re purchasing are truly natural and high quality? Check out this complete guide on how to avoid adulterated, fraudulent, and synthetic essential oils and natural fragrances.

How to avoid adulterated, fraudulent, and synthetic essential oils and natural fragrances

Those of us who love natural aromas and essential oils do so because we know they are gifts from nature.

Every single plant on our earth carries both chemical and energetic signatures. When our own physical and energetic bodies receive the gifts of these plants, true healing and transformation can take place on every level of our being.

The same cannot be said for synthetic fragrances.

Not only do lab-created fragrances lack the vital life force and energetic resonance of true plant materials, they’re often harmful to our health and planet.

Unfortunately, the world of aromatics is fraught with artificial and adulterated oils that are sold as “pure” and “natural”.

Why? Because of the cost. True natural plant material is simply more expensive than synthetic ingredients across the board.

While I hope that someday we stop prioritizing greed over life, as a collective, we’re just not there yet.

So how can you protect yourself? How can you make sure that the oils and products you’re purchasing are truly natural?

I’ll be honest. I’ve learned to be very discerning with my ingredients the hard way…

Yes, despite my years of training and research I’ve been fooled—I’ve probably lost thousands of dollars to fraudulent suppliers and ignorant resellers over the years.

But I’ve learned some key lessons along the way. The following are my top tips for navigating the wild world of natural fragrances.

Here's what you need to know about buying natural perfumes and essential oils

1. If the price of an essential oil is too good to be true…it probably is.

This is probably the number one easiest and most important thing to look for. True plant material will always be more expensive than its synthetic counterparts.

Pro tip: There tend to be average price ranges for most essential oils. If in doubt, compare several companies’ pricing. Let’s look at a few examples…

How much does lavender essential oil cost?

Lavender essential oil tends to be one of the most affordable and available essential oils.

Based on a few of my trusted companies, one ounce of lavender EO tends to cost between $17 and $50—country of origin, variety, and organic certification affect the price.

The lavender EO from a popular oil supplier known to be fraudulent costs $30 for nine ounces!!! No, no, no.

How much does rose essential oil cost?

Along with lavender, rose essential oil is extremely popular—but it tends to be quite expensive. While true rose essential oil is available (and totally divine), the absolute* of rose is what most people purchase.

From my trusted companies, one ounce of rose absolute from Bulgaria (generally the most affordable rose) costs between $150 and $300 ($200 is the most common pricing).

Guess how much 1.69oz of Bulgarian rose absolute it from the popular fraudulent company? $36. Again, no, no, no.

(*Absolutes are extracted differently than true essential oils, though within the field of aromatherapy, the term “essential oil” is used as an umbrella to refer to all types of extractions.)

True plant extractions are expensive. And they’re worth it. Do your research and don’t become a sucker for a good price.

2. The same pricing rules go for “natural” perfumes, oils, sprays, candles, and fragrances of all kinds, as well.

Why is it that some natural perfumers sell a 30ml perfume for $20, and some for $300? Why is it that you can find natural perfume oils on Etsy for as low as $6 and as high as the sky?

Of course, many factors play into how a maker prices their products—experience, artistry, complexity, quality and variety of ingredients, time spent, market recognition, and much more.

But at a certain point, there is no way someone can be charging so little for a fragrance without using synthetics.

And here’s the tricky part…these makers usually aren’t intentionally being fraudulent. Instead, they’ve likely been fooled themselves and have sourced impossibly cheap ingredients. Or, they’re using a somewhat “expanded” definition of natural fragrance (more on that below).

If you want to protect yourself from synthetic aromas, trust your intuition and apply everything you learn in this article when making any purchase.

3. If a company sells both synthetics (aka “fragrance” oils) and essential oils, be very wary.

I’ve yet to find a company that sells both synthetic fragrances and good quality essential oils. And sadly, I’ve tried quite a few over the years. Maybe one exists, but in general, I take this as a major warning sign. (Not to mention, I personally don’t want to support the artificial fragrance industry.)

4. Watch out for fragrant flowers.

Rare and precious flowers delight our senses and form the heart of most natural perfumes. And, they’re very expensive. And, actually extracting essential oils (including absolutes and CO2s) is nearly impossible for many precious scents.

True rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, boronia, orange blossom, geranium, osthmanthus, tuberose, jonquil, lotus, chrysanthemum, and frangipani are a few florals that are perfectly possible to obtain naturally (though some will cost you well over $1000/oz).

Listed as ingredients, the following flowers are almost* always synthetic: lily of the valley, gardenia, lilac, daphne, any lily, honeysuckle, freesia, and hyacinth, to name a few. Anything described as “white florals” tends to point to synthetics, as well.

*The exceptions being labor-intensive enfleurage and tinctures—but you’ll pretty much never find these in commercially produced fragrances.

lily perfume — Any lily fragrance is most likely synthetic.

honeysuckle perfume — No natural honeysuckle essential oil exists.

5. Learn to identify the common synthetic descriptors.

While creative combinations of natural oils can produce a wide range of aromas, there are a few descriptors that are most often found with synthetics.

Two main categories to watch out for are one, anything described as “oceanic” or “aquatic”, and two, most fruity and food aromas.

This tip is definitely more of a general guideline than a rule. A talented alchemist can create marine notes, fun fruits, and sugary sweetness using naturals. I certainly do, and I even use these descriptors.

Overall though, these fragrance families are commonly synthetic. With oceanic and aquatic fragrances, this is because these descriptors were used to describe the aldehyde-based fragrances that became popular in the 1990s.

As for the foods, the frequency of synthetics is partly because there simply aren’t natural oils that smell like fresh peaches or plums, and partly because even food flavorings found in essential oils are often synthetic for cost reasons. Cinnamon and vanilla are a few of the most commonly adulterated essential oils (scientists are even piloting a vanilla flavoring made from plastic).

6. Beware of “clean fragrance” and natural isolates

“Clean” Perfume Houses

With growing awareness of the harmful effects of synthetic fragrances, many perfume houses market their perfumes as “clean”. These companies have a lovely list of EWG-approved ingredients, as well as a promise to be free from cruelty, phthalates, and all sorts of other known carcinogens.

This might be exactly what you’re looking for—in which case, shop away!

Just be aware that clean does not mean natural. These companies use what are called “safe synthetics” in their perfumes. So, if you’re looking for truly natural perfume and all the benefits it offers, be sure to look beyond greenwashing.

Natural Perfume Brands

Many perfumers call themselves “natural perfumers” because they know this is what people are looking for. These perfumers will use mostly natural perfume ingredients, but they rely on synthetics to make their perfumes. If you’re avoiding synthetics for any reason—especially health ones—this defeats the purpose. When in doubt, reach out to the perfumer and ask nicely, but very directly.

Isolates?

If you read the natural perfume ingredient lists of the most popular perfume brands today, you’ll often find words like cedrat, benzaldehyde, and alpha-isomethyl ionone.

Wait—you might as yourself-–how can something natural sound like it comes from a laboratory?

Because it does. Isolates are molecular extractions from plant origin, and the Natural Perfumers Guild includes them in its list of acceptable natural ingredients.

Since these chemical components come from plants, you might feel totally fine with using them. They certainly expand the perfumer’s palette!

Unfortunately, we have no way of knowing how these isolates were extracted (i.e. what process or chemicals were used), or what plant material they originated from. GMO origin is extremely common here, as well.

I personally do not use isolates, as I blend energetically as well as fragrantly. This means that bringing the whole, energetic presence of a plant into my blends is just as important as how it smells. Isolates contain none of the life force and spiritual blueprints for healing that whole plant materials do.

7. Parfum, perfume, and fragrance: A tip for purchasing natural products.

As with many of the words in this list, these terms are used for both synthetic and natural fragrances, meaning that there are no hard and fast rules here. However, if you see any of these terms on a natural product—think shampoos, body lotions, candles, etc—there is a 99.9% chance that synthetics are involved.

(FYI, I’ve found “Clean at Sephora” to be one of the worst offenders here. Bath and Bodyworks aromatherapy products might have some essential oils, but they most definitely have synthetics, as well.)

8. Be careful when sourcing from various countries.

First, there are plenty of unscrupulous companies in the US, where I live, as well as throughout the world. And, my worst experiences personally have been from when I tried to buy oils directly from suppliers in India and Egypt.

While I don’t like calling out specific countries or companies publicly, I’ve seen enough harm that I feel the need to specifically address these two places in particular.

First, India is home to many of the world’s most precious raw aromatics. Beautiful oils and true natural perfumes come out of India and I’m eternally grateful for all the amazing pure oils I have sourced from this country.

India is also home to a disproportionate number of online oil suppliers that sell blatantly synthetic oils as pure and natural. Too often, I see people think that costs are lower because they’re buying directly from the supplier.

This isn’t true. First, the prices are far too low even for a direct supply (yet just high enough to make you sorry if you buy too much…speaking from experience). Second, any experienced nose will be able to tell how fraudulent these oils are from a mile away.

Next, Egypt. I’ve seen many magical makers of anointing oil claiming to source their oils directly from Egypt. Maybe they have a good connection there…but I have my doubts.

I remember visiting perfumeries and oil houses during my own travels to Egypt. Time and again, I sat down to smell all these wonderful pure, natural oils. And time and again, my nose was disappointed.

Sure, if you like synthetic aromas (and many people do—our noses are trained to at this point), you’ll like what you smell. But these oils are not natural. While some, especially the florals, do smell close to the natural versions, any trained nose will pick up on far too many synthetic aromas in the mix.

So please, just be careful if you’re either sourcing directly from these countries or purchasing sacred oils from someone who claims to have gotten their oils from these locations.

9. Trust your nose.

Finally, trust your nose.

This is easier said than done for most folks. Modern life is filled with so many synthetic aromas and fragrances that most people have lost touch with what “natural” really smells like. But you can learn. The more you smell natural fragrances, the more you’ll be able to identify their synthetic counterparts.

Making the Shift to Natural Perfumes

If you’re worried that letting go of synthetics will leave you smelling like a patchouli-drenched hippie—think again. (Although, I do love a patchouli-drenched hippy myself.)

Elevated natural perfumes and anointing oils are far more than the aromatherapy blends you might be imagining. Give true natural fragrance a try and see what you think ;)

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Which Should I Choose? Sprays, Oils, and Solid Perfumes

What are the benefits of perfume sprays versus oils or solids? Compare and contrast so you can find the best perfume for you.

In natural perfumery, you'll find three main types of perfumes: sprays, oils, and solids. All are wonderful, but each will give you a slightly different experience.

Perfume Sprays

Unless otherwise mentioned, most perfume sprays come in EDP (eau de parfum) strength, which is about 15-20% aromatics. This is true of Alchemessence perfumes, which contain a base of 100% pure organic alcohol.

Perfume sprays allow you to enjoy an all-over aroma--you can spray your hair, your clothes, a scarf, an undergarment...sprays are incredibly versatile.

Sprays also tend to be a bit lighter and slightly more fleeting in scent than oil and solid perfumes.

Perhaps the main advantage of perfume sprays is that they have a long-lasting shelf life. The pure alcohol preserves these perfumes almost indefinitely.

Perfume Oils

Perfume oils are typically made at a slightly higher concentration that sprays, and their cost usually reflects this. It's not uncommon for an oil to be a pure perfume extrait, which can contain from 25% aromatics all the way up to 40%!

These sensual, strong oils meld deeply into your own body chemistry, creating a fragrance that truly is a bit different on everyone.

The only real drawback to oils is that they'll have a shorter shelf life than sprays. Oils naturally degrade overtime, so these are best used within a year or two of purchase.

Perfume Solids

Perfume solids typically contain oils and waxes. Beeswax is traditional, though there are vegan alternatives available.

These perfumes are quite similar to perfume oils: they're usually perfume extraits, they seep into your skin and alchemize with your body chemistry, and they're best used within a two to four years of purchase, depending on how you store them.

As solids, these perfumes are portable and easy to use on the go.

Pros and cons comparison of sprays, oils, and solid perfumes

Which kind of perfumes are your favorites? Let me know in the comments!

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How I Make Natural Perfumes: Art, Aroma, and Alchemy in a Bottle

A peek into the secrets of botanical perfume making. Discover the role of meditation, symbolism, traditional perfumery, and more as you follow my process of creating spiritual and natural perfumes.

Every perfume is the result of alchemy. The alchemy of art and aroma infused with spirit.

Each Alchemessence™ perfume is art, aroma, and alchemy in a bottle. They contain magical essences, transmission of spirit, and masterfully composed symphonies of fragrance.

My formal training (and lifelong practice) in perfumery, aromatherapy, energy medicine, and shamanism provides a foundation for perfumes that not only delight the senses but act as catalysts for healing and awakening.

These perfumes are primarily dedicated to deities, animals, and plant spirits. Before I begin, I journey to the spirit of the being I’m working with for guidance—sometimes this will come in the form of specific ingredients, and other times it will be more general aroma notes. I’m highly clairolfactory (psychic through smell), so I will also smell the perfume in my journey before it exists in ordinary reality.

My collection of over 400 different botanical essences includes essential oils, absolutes, CO2s, floral waxes, resins, and handcrafted tinctures and infused oils. Unlike many natural perfumers, I do not use any isolates or animal ingredients (with the few exceptions of burnt seashell essence, honey absolute, and beeswax) in my perfumes.

I select ingredients for each perfume based on several factors, including…

The Journey—what the deity specifically requested:

Aphrodite wanted her perfume’s ingredients to come only from the place of her birth—and the birth of perfume—Cyprus
Magpie insisted on juniper berry and jasmine (which I have since learned is a powerful and common combo in Toaist aromatherapy)
Horse requested fresh hay or course, which I complemented with fields of lavender

Geography—essences to honor the primary location of a deity:

Kuan Yin has notes of green tea and ginger
Pele is honored with rare frangipani absolute
White Buffalo Calf Woman contains true white sagebrush

Symbolism—symbolic plants and essences associated with each deity:

Diana, also known as Artemis, contains the artemisia that is her namesake
Freya contains true fossilized amber, her favorite stone
Oshun is blessed with honey absolute for the honeypot she wears

Energetic Qualities—the way an essence’s energetic properties support the gifts of the deity:

Persephone contains cypress, which helps with transitioning between life and death, just as she so gracefully moves between Hades and Earth
Many moon goddesses contain a touch of clary sage, which enhances women’s natural cycles

Aroma—what truly makes each blend a perfume in the purest sense:

I carefully balance base, middle, and top notes, adding accents and fixatives so each perfume reveals surprises as it unfolds and lasts
I match the perfume family requested by each deity as well, be it floral, spicy, chypre, or woody, among others

All of these factors come together to create rare, alchemical botanical perfumes.

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A Guide to Natural Perfume Fragrance Families

Fragrance families are scent classifications used in perfumery, and each family has its signature ingredients and overall aroma. In this article, we’ll cover the main classifications of fragrances—though to be fair, there are several different versions of fragrance categories out there and no one seems to agree on a definitive version.

Chypre…Fougère…Aromatic…the olfactory families of fragrance may sound somewhat exotic at first, but dive in and they become welcome allies on the path to perfume creation and selection.

A Brief History of Fragrance Families

At the turn of the 20th century, when most perfumes were still made with pure botanical ingredients (though synthetics had been introduced with Guerlain’s Jicky), there were seven main families: single floral, floral bouquet, oriental, woody, chypre, fougère, and leather.

In general, these pure botanical perfumes contained resins, woods, flowers, spice, and citrus notes—we’ll go into more detail below.

Modern chemistry and access to new aromatics led to what we might think of as more green, fresh and aquatic notes in perfumes, primarily created through synthetic aldehydes. In the mid 1900s, new fragrance families emerged on the scene as a result:

Bright floral—combined the single and bouquet floral families
Citrus—citrus doesn’t last long on its own, so synthetics made this family have staying power
Green—like a bright, fresh chypre
Gourmand—edible notes of vanilla, cinnamon, and fruits
Ozone/Aquatic—this actually didn’t come around until the 90s…think clean and unisex

In 1983, popular perfume consultant Micheal Edwards decided to simplify the traditional and growing perfume families into a perfume wheel. The wheel has four main families and their sub-families around its circumference—woody, floral, oriental, and fresh.

In recent years, there’s been a movement to rename the traditional “oriental” family to “amber” or “ambrée”—as it’s become clear the former term is outdated and can be offensive. The updated Micheal Edwards perfume wheel reflects this:

Michael Edwards Perfume Wheel - Fragrances of the World

Given the varied and changing history of fragrance families, it comes as no surprise that modern perfumery resources all use slightly different terms and organizations.

In general, several families appear regularly: fresh, floral, floriental, ambrée, fougère, woody, chypre, fruity, aromatic, citrus, green, aquatic, leather, and gourmand.

The Perfume Society has a fun interactive site that features eight of these families, each clickable to continue exploring subfamilies.

An important note on synthetic vs. natural fragrances:

Unless specified otherwise, most modern perfumes contain synthetic ingredients. Even “natural” perfumes commonly contain isolates, which are somewhat controversial in the world of natural perfumery.

For those switching to pure botanical perfumes, a few popular families will be off the table—perfumes considered aquatic/ozone, fresh, or green are almost always dominated by synthetic aldehydes, so these family classifications just aren’t useful in natural perfumery.

Botanical/Natural Perfume Classifications

Given the history of fragrance and the ingredients available, I use nine main families in my own perfume classifications. No guarantees these won’t continue to evolve, but for now, they wonderfully describe the main classifications of natural perfumes available:

Chypre Perfumes

One of my personal favorites, chypre (pronounced shee-pra) is named for Cyprus, the island of Aphrodite’s birth and home to the world’s oldest large-scale perfumery. The name in perfumery comes from François Coty’s 1917 perfume Chypre, which had notes of bergamot and citrus on top, a full floral middle with jasmine and rose, and an earthy base of oakmoss, patchouli, incense, musk, and styrax.

Chypre perfumes are characterized by a mossy accord of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. Some may be more floral, with strong notes of jasmine or ylang ylang, while others might be more citrusy, woody, or herbaceous. Both traditionally masculine and feminine fragrances have fallen in the chypre category.

Lavender, geranium, vetiver, bergamot, oakmoss, and coumarin are commonly found in these perfumes, and while they were created for women, today masculine perfumes are dominated by the fougère family...

Fougère Perfumes

A fougère is what is known as a fantasy scent, originating with Fougère Royale from Houbigant in 1882. Named for the French word for fern, these perfumes tend to have green and aromatic notes.

Lavender, geranium, vetiver, bergamot, oakmoss, and coumarin are commonly found in these perfumes, and while they were created for women, today masculine perfumes are dominated by the fougère family.

Floral Perfumes

The name speaks for itself with these perfumes—fragrant jasmine, carnation, rose, orange blossom, ylang ylang, magnolia, and more take the center in a floral perfume. While many beloved flowers simply aren’t available as naturals except through the laborious process of enfleurage (lily of the valley, helitrop, and lilac for example), many precious flowers are found naturally—they just cost a pretty penny ($1000 USD per ounce is not uncommon!). Lotus, narcissus, boronia, osmanthus, jonquille, cassie, broom, kewda, frangipani, champaca, and tuberose fall into this realm.

Within the many floral sub-families, two are worth mentioning here: soliflore, or single note perfumes that focus on celebrating and enhancing a single flower, and floral bouquets, which present well-balanced floral arrangements that make it difficult to single out any one flower among the many,

Today, floral fragrances are most popular among women, though in cultures throughout the world this isn’t necessarily the case—you’ll find kewda and rose among other florals throughout men’s fragrances in India and the Middle East!

Ambrée Perfumes

Also called amber—the post-oriental name is still settling in—these fragrances are characterized by rich, resins, vanilla, musk, and occasional spice. In perfumery, “amber” doesn’t refer to the stone but to ambergris, the precious and strangely fragrant bile of whales.

Today, ambrée perfumes tend to be rich, long-lasting, and have an exotic flavor about them. At least half of the botanical perfumes I’ve designed have been ambrée, as they smell divine and last forever, even as all-natural creations.

Sandalwood, coumarin, orris, vanilla, labdanum, and resins give ambrée perfume its signature notes, and the floral amber sub-family is one of the most rapidly growing fragrance families today. I’m not surprised, as the synergy of exotic florals, precious woods, and rich ambery notes truly nourishes the soul.

Aromatic Perfumes

The aromatic family is characterized by herbaceous notes—rosemary, basil, and tarragon are popular here. Though mainly found in men’s fragrances, I find aromatics work beautifully to create green and fresh notes in natural perfumes. Fresh florals like lavender and geranium, along with citruses, often overlay aromatic perfumes. Traditional colognes would found in this family.

As a note, you may find the citrus family also referred to as the “hesperides” family. Legend has it that the Hesperis were three Greek nymphs who watched over “golden apples”—citrus fruits–giving immortality to any who tasted them...

Citrus Perfumes

While citrus notes are found in nearly all perfumes, pure citrus fragrances are light and bright. In mainstream citrus perfumes the tenacity will come from synthetics, but citrus scents in botanical and natural perfumes are perfectly possible. Some citrus perfumes will be lighter and a bit more fleeting, while sub-families like floral citrus, spicy citrus, and woody citrus will delight the wearer as citrus top notes give way to various lasting undertones.

A wide variety of citruses can be found in the citrus family. Bergamot and bitter orange are probably the most common, but yuzu, lime, mandarine, sweet orange, lemon, grapefruit, citron, and cedrat can all be found. I have blood orange, tangerine, mandarine, and kumquat in my collection, and use other lemony plants for citrus notes, such as lemongrass, lemon myrtle, and lemon verbena.

As a note, you may find the citrus family also referred to as the “hesperides” family. Legend has it that the Hesperis were three Greek nymphs who watched over “golden apples”—citrus fruits–giving immortality to any who tasted them.

Woody Perfumes

As with florals, the woody family name speaks for itself. Precious woods such as oud and sandalwood, dry notes like cedar and juniper, and woody herbs like patchouli and vetiver can be found in just about all woody perfumes. Some are warm and spicy with sweet resins, while others can be more aromatic, citrusy, and crisp.

My personal favorite woody perfume is Daikoku—with notes of buddhawood, sandalwood, and Japanese cedar and cypress, it smells like Japanese mountain temples laced with fragrant incense.

Leather Perfumes

Leather became a fragrance family thanks to the many aromas tanners would use to disguise the off-putting scents created during their processes (think ammonia, yuck). The smoke, resins, and woods used to mask the leather tanning process ended up mixing with the leather itself, creating a much-desired fragrance that spread to the world of perfumery.

Over time, this family has evolved to include many traditionally masculine notes—tobacco, cognac, smoke, woods, tar, and resins are common, with the leather notes being either forefront or nearly undetectable. In natural perfumery, which uses animal products, the leather notes might not be cruelty free. In botanical perfumery, however, there are many great alternatives—styrax, birch tar, and choya nakh are a few options.

Gourmand Perfumes

Relatively new on the perfume scene are the gourmands—those perfumes with a somewhat edible flavor profile, typically warm and spicy. The vast majority of gourmand perfumes contain synthetic ingredients and dessert-like scents—caramel, cotton candy, toffee, and bubblegum to name a few.

However the world of botanical perfumery has plenty to offer here if you’re willing to splurge on the pure, natural versions—chocolate, coffee, cognac, almond, vanilla, and even spices and amber notes can create lovely gourmand perfumes.

Within all the perfume families above, subfamilies are used to further delineate each perfume’s aroma. Here are a few of the terms you’ll see attached to each family:

Spicy—coriander, cinnamon, clove, pepper and more
Fruity—may contain citrus, berry, or other sweet notes
Soft—typically contains a powdery, musky element
Musky—similar to soft but heavier on the musk
Green—fresh herbs, bright florals
Fresh—similar to green, may also have more citrus
Aquatic—typically synthetic aldehydes, in natural perfumery can signify more animalic, seaweed-based notes

What do you think? Which aromas are your favorites? Let me know in the comments!

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Great Northern Bedstraw: A Beloved and Underrated Wild Plant

One of my favorite fragrances as I hike through the mountains is that of Great Northern Bedstraw. It smells of honey and fresh hay, and was often used as bedding because of of it's sweet scent.

One of my favorite fragrances as I hike through the mountains is that of Great Northern Bedstraw (Galium boreale). It smells of honey and fresh hay, and was often used as bedding because of of it's sweet scent. Some native tribes would even add it to perfumes.

Though it's not commonly used in modern day herbalism, northern bedstraw has a few important internal uses. It was traditionally made into a tea for intestinal issues and internal bleeding. It's also very mineral rich, so I like to infuse it into wild greens vinegar so I can have a wild nutrient boost throughout the year.

But before you consume―some literature suggests that great northern bedstraw was taken by indigenous people to prevent pregnancy. Though I haven't found much evidence on this, if you're trying to conceive, it's probably best to be safer than sorry!

Externally, great northern bedstraw can be used to soothe a variety of skin conditions—rashes, burns, cuts, eczema, and more. And, its roots make a beautiful red dye!

Energetically, great northern bedstraw helps bring about sweet dreams and deep rest. It can help cultivate feelings of love between partners, as well, and I recommend misting your bed with the flower essence before sleeping…or participating in other bedroom activities ;)

Carefully separating the delicate flowers of great northern bedstraw for perfuming tinctures.

During my most recent foraging adventures, great northern bedstraw gifted me with much medicine to share.

First, I carefully removed the delicate white blossoms from the green stems to make a tincture in organic alcohol. The scent is of fresh hay and delicate florals, a beautiful sweet green note that I can’t wait to share through new perfumes. Combining my own wildcrafted aromas with rare oils from around the world allows to me to create fragrances that you just can’t find anywhere else. They are beautiful and love making them and wearing them.

I also infused the entire areal plant into organic sunflower oil. Sunflower oil is a long-lasting carrier oil with a lovely texture, and infusing it with bedstraw gives the oil the same lovely scent as the tincture―with benefits! The potent nutrients fill this oil with healing benefits for your skin, joints, and muscles, so I’ve included it in this year’s healing salves.

You can also find this year’s harvest of great northern bedstraw in the psychic dreams smoke bundles, as well as in a flower essence.

Have you ever worked with this lovely plant? Send me note and let me know. :)

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The Alchemy of Making Spiritual Perfumes

A peek into the secrets of botanical perfume making. Discover the role of the shamanic journey, symbolism, traditional perfumery, and more as you follow my process of creating spiritual perfumes.

John William Waterhouse - The Soul of the Rose, 1903

Updated! This is article is currently being updated — check back soon for what is becoming a rich resource for you aromatic studies!!!

In the meantime, you might enjoy taking a look at the Complete Guide to Magickal Anointing Oils and my growing collection of Spiritual Perfumes.

Scent holds the unique power to transcend the physical realm and connect us with the spiritual. Across cultures and civilizations, the use of fragrances in spiritual practices has been a common thread that weaves together the human experience with the divine.

It seems our ancestors intuitively knew the wisdom we’re reclaiming today: Fragrance can invoke emotions and trigger memories, shift both our vibrational frequency and our chemistry, and alter our state of consciousness. Fragrance elevates our rituals, creates sacred spaces, and facilitates a deeper connection with the unseen realms.

Of all the many historical and ritual uses of fragrance, it is the art of perfumery that inspires true soul-level alchemy. Through spiritual perfumery, the healing spirits of nature and the gods themselves are invited into elixirs of beauty and transformation.

The alchemy of making spiritual perfumes is one of the lost temple arts.

As someone who walks the path of the wild priestess, I’ve been initiated into ancient temple arts by guides in both human and spiritual form. I’ve studied with shamans throughout the world, apprenticed in Taoist anointing practices, become clinically certified in aromatherapy, been mentored in Western magickal practices, and professionally trained with the preeminent natural perfumers of our time. I’ve traveled to temples and perfumeries in India, Egypt, and Greece.

Many people who are drawn to natural perfumery are motivated by their spiritual connections with plants and perfume — yet it’s been incredibly challenging to find teachers in human form who truly bridge the artistry with the depths of spiritual practice possible when it comes to the alchemy of spiritual perfumes (though my teacher Roxanna certainly brings spirit and art into her creations). And so, I also learned perfumery as a temple art from the goddesses themselves.

In the deepest part of my soul, I’ve always known that perfume is a path to the sacred.

Through the alchemy of beauty, art, ritual, intention, and the healing power of the plants themselves, perfume has the potential to shift us out of the mundane and into the magical.

It breaks the spell of our collective sleep. It rewires us for pleasure and delight. And it bridges the physical with the spiritual.

In this article, I’ll share an overview of the alchemical art of making spiritual perfumes. Together, we’ll dive into the aromatic history of spiritual fragrances and the importance of the priestess path when it comes to aromatics. We’ll explore the divine nectar of fragrant plants — and look at why spiritual perfumes must be made with natural materials. And we’ll look at rituals and ceremonies for both creating and using sacred scents.

You are about to step into the endless world of spiritual aromatics — a world that has been subtly and intentionally removed from us, with devastating effects on our psyches and feminine power (read “Severed from Scent” for more on this). But we are reclaiming the true potency and transformative power of these lost arts. And your journey of remembering is just beginning.

Creating an Elevated Perfume and the Feminine Reclamation of Beauty

Fragrance is sacred. Aroma is healing. And the spiritual use of scent has taken many forms throughout history.

So what sets spiritual perfumes apart?

The word “perfume” can be a bit of a confusing word because of its dual meaning: It can refer to both a pleasing aroma in general, as well as the liquid fragrances you probably first think of when you hear this word.

While I adore fragrance in all its forms, this article is about perfumes in the “perfume in a bottle” sense — and why bringing back the sacred and the natural to the art of perfumery is a divine act mandate for bringing our world back into cosmic balance.

Okay… yes, that probably sounds a bit over-the-top. But bear with me. Perfume is powerful.

Part of what sets perfume apart from other spiritual fragrances is its emphasis on beauty. Far from the superficial reputation “beauty culture” often has today, beauty is actually an essential part of the cosmos.

Beauty reminds us that we are not here only to survive but to thrive. We are not here only to learn and grow but to delight in pleasure and the sensual nature of our embodiment.

Pausing to fully experience the beauty of life is an act of rebellion in a culture that’s always pushing us to go and grow. It is a reclamation of feminine value, power, and ways of knowing.

Beauty awakens our hearts to gratitude. It is the celebration of the natural world and the potential of elevated human creativity and culture.

And all of this comes together in an elevated spiritual perfume.

When I create true spiritual perfumes, I bridge the magic of nature — partnering with plant spirits and using only natural materials — with inspiration from spirit — filling each aromatic bottle with a transmission of spiritual power. And, I always do so within the context of artistry and beauty. An aromatic blend might be healing and spiritual (many aromatherapy blends are), but it’s not a perfume unless it ignites the senses with blessings of artistry and beauty.

This is why the alchemy of making spiritual perfumes is so close to my heart. And why I hope you become inspired to reclaim the temple arts of the priestess path and journey into the world of spiritual perfumery.

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Parfum Extrait

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Eau de Toilette (EDT)

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Eau Fraiche

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The loss of smell has been such a strange piece of this pandemic era…

One long-standing culprit is the fragrance and flavoring industry.

By the time the pandemic arrived, humanity had been well prepped for relinquishing our sense of smell.

Returning to the Perfumery

Meet the Aromatic Archangels

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4 Ways Essential Oils and Natural Products are Adulterated

8 Tips for Sourcing Authentic and Pure Essential Oils & Natural Products

1. The Price

2. Botanical Names

3. Extraction Method & Part Distilled

4. Country of Origin

5. Cultivation

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6. Company Transparency

7. Non-Existent Oils

8. Company Ethics

What are anointing oils?

The History of Anointing with Oil

Ancient Egypt

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Myrrophores

The Path of the Myrrhophore

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Shamanic Transmission in Anointing Practices: The Key to Potency

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Modern Anointing Practices

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Common Questions: How to Distinguish Anointing Oils from other Aromatic Practices

What’s the difference between an anointing oil and other botanical oils?

Are anointing oils the same as aromatherapy?

What’s the difference between anointing oils and perfumes?

Are anointing oils the same as ritual oils?

Angel Magic & Anointing

1. If the price of an essential oil is too good to be true…it probably is.

2. The same pricing rules go for “natural” perfumes, oils, sprays, candles, and fragrances of all kinds, as well.

3. If a company sells both synthetics (aka “fragrance” oils) and essential oils, be very wary.

4. Watch out for fragrant flowers.

5. Learn to identify the common synthetic descriptors.

​Download Your FREE Guide to Flower Essences

6. Beware of “clean fragrance” and natural isolates

7. Parfum, perfume, and fragrance: A tip for purchasing natural products.

8. Be careful when sourcing from various countries.

9. Trust your nose.

Making the Shift to Natural Perfumes

Perfume Sprays

Perfume Oils

Perfume Solids

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I select ingredients for each perfume based on several factors, including…

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A Brief History of Fragrance Families

An important note on synthetic vs. natural fragrances:

Botanical/Natural Perfume Classifications

Chypre Perfumes

Fougère Perfumes

Floral Perfumes

Ambrée Perfumes

Aromatic Perfumes

Citrus Perfumes

Woody Perfumes

Leather Perfumes

Gourmand Perfumes

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Creating an Elevated Perfume and the Feminine Reclamation of Beauty

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Download Your FREE Guide to Flower Essences

Download Your FREE Guide to Flower Essences